The first thing that comes to mind when planning a trip to Tolovana Hot Springs, Alaska is soaking in the incredible natural, hot water with good company. The second thing is weather and the ~11 mile trail that leads to the cabins.
A trip to Tolovana Hot Springs, Alaska is always unforgettable. Not just because you have an incredible time soaking up the waters in the wilds of Interior Alaska but the trip in or out might, to employ an overused term, be described as epic. Whether it’s losing the trail because of a white-out, a broken snow machine, broken ski, frozen body part, dog got caught in a trap, snow machine won’t start, or the car won’t start, something seems to happen. We expect it and we plan for it. The trail also holds an amazing view. Looking south across Minto Flats, then the Tanana Flats up to the Alaska Range and, the big one, Denali inspires awe to say the least.
A group of nine of us met for breakfast at local greasy spoon before setting off on the 2.5 hour drive to the trail head. Weather seemed good, 9 below zero. It had been 30-40 below zero the week leading up to the trip with everybody waiting to see who would be the first to fold and not go. At the trail head it was 17 below and the wind was howling. Winds are typically high at the trail head this time of year and the day length is roughly four hours.
Various forms of transport get people from the road to the cabins. I have skied most years myself. This year I would be on snow machine as were two others. We knew from the trail report that there would be little snow so most people planned on walking, but one rode a “fat” bike (mountain bike modified with large tires).
The three of us with machines hauled all the gear while those on foot carried only extra clothes and food. Not every trip out to Tolovana Hot Springs has snow machine support and under those circumstances it’s typical to load that gear in a sled and drag it. Anyhow, the view was staggering.
The three of us on machines arrived first, naturally, unloaded gear, fetched water, and lit fires in the three cabins. After a beer we decided to head back and see how the hikers were faring becasue..who knows. Our resident biker was already in camp. The walkers were all fine except for one dog that had a hard reaction to the cold. He was ushered by machine back to camp.
The trail to Tolovana is a small section of the Dunbar Trail that runs between Fairbanks and Livengood. This trail was originally cut by the first Caterpillar to arrive in Alaska in 1911. Word had gotten out in Fairbanks that there was gold up around Tolovana and Livengood so many men set out for them thar hills to strike it rich. Transportation and shipping were extremely difficult in that era so a couple guys bought that caterpillar and agreed to cut trail. Their final product opened up Alaska even further and continued to see high use through the years.
The other chore, really the first thing to do after arriving at the springs is to pull the cold hoses out so the water gets good and hot for the first soak. The hoses literally run from the source hot water seeping from the hillsides and the cold water from the creek. We had incredibly strong winds which really whisked away a fair amount of that heat so our first soak was “on the low end of perfect”, I believe is what Jeremy called it.
But you cannot beat a cup of coffee while sitting in the hot waters at 10:30 in the morning watching the sunrise. The second soak was a success.
Sunset the second day of the trip. That is Denali (aka Mt. McKinley of Denali National Park) on the left.
Same position minutes later with no zoom. Minto flats is to the right of the sun.
Thanks for having a look at The Interior of Alaskan Life. It’s a good one. See us on Facebook or even Twitter. Next week we’ll be back in Colombia if uploading time permits and then on to the Galápagos Islands .
Thanks to Tom, Melissa, Mark, Ellie, Jeremy, Dianna, Melissa, and Sally. Another great rip to Tolovana. Thanks for all the help. Until next time.
what a trip mike! could you explain about the cold water hose please? i’m wondering why?
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I guess when a person has done something so many times it;’s easy to leave out some familiar details. With both the cold and hot hoses in the tub the water is often just like warm. For that reason one person usually goes up and checks the status of the tub. Pulling out the cold hose is just like turning off the cold tap at home and letting only the hot water run. And, yep, that is a really great trip.
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thank you mike! –kris
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Hey Mike! I was in Alaska just last summer, loved the landscape, blue skies, mountain goats and abundance of trees… wish I could have seen more, spent more time in the clean fresh air. I don’t think I could muster up the courage for a sub-zero visit, but it certainly does create some crisply gorgeous photos! Thanks for dropping by my blog 😉 Keep warm.. (brrrrr!! you’d never know I was born in the Canadian TUNDRA!!)
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Glad you enjoyed your visit. Funny about never knowing you’d be tundra born. Many people born and raised here run as far away as fast as possible as soon as possible. Where are you know then?
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I was born in Fairbanks and left when I was about 18 months. I have always wanted to make the trek back. Reading this just gives me one more reason why I’d love to visit! Sounds divine 🙂
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Yes, that trek in the depths of winter is the divine reset button. So much fun.
Ha, funny, most people make it to at least 18 years before they run like hell. Where are you now?
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Lol- I am in Ohio. Really looking forward to making it back to Alaska to see some amazing natural beauty 🙂
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Great. Let me know when you come through. Cheers
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True, deep cold there. So much more than here in Michigan. Would love to snowmobile that area… 🙂
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There is some great country for that. When are you coming?
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Great photos and like you had fun – looks a bit too cold there for me though!
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Looks stunning. Love the pink light on the snow. Is the water heated from a volcanic source?
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The light that time of year is surreal for most of the short day. The water is a geothermal heat source nearby. I am not a geologist so don’t not know exactly what it looks like down there. We have many thermal springs in Interior Alaska though. Have you been to a natural hot spring?
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Tolovana and Jenga!? So jealous. Darn. It. Glad you wrote about this one, enjoyed!
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Each Jenga piece had a command on it. Some less savory than others.
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Awesome, I want examples later. That game deserves some spice in the mix!
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You got it.
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Amazing trip ! 🙂
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Wonderful
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Thanks
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How cold would it have had to be for you to fold?
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40 below for sure and maybe some people would have folded at 30 below. At 30 below I would have walked rather than gone by snow machine. Feet are much more reliable than machines!
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I am in 19 above right now, and I am a wimp.
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It’s all relative. We all wimp out here when it starts getting to 19 here in September or October. Though 19 is balmy this time of year….
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I’ll remember ‘balmy’ tomorrow when I’m wandering around outside. 🙂
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Ha ha ;>)
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An real adventure, with some good pictures, especially the sunsets. Can’t imagine how hard a journey like that would have been before all the modern equipment, clothing and machines available today!
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The original sourdoughs were a hearty breed. Then consider the indigenous tribes. Amazing.
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When I look at your site this was the one trip that really took my fancy. Beautiful.
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Thanks, Mark. It’s a great trip. No connections here. Leave your cell phone and iThing at home.
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I nominated your blog for The Versatile Blogger Award.
Check it out at http://alanhalsey.com/2013/01/16/apparently-im-versatile/
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Thanks so much. I am humbled. Cheers!
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Awesome photos, what an amazing place to visit. I’ve sat in a hot-tub in a ski resort but never anything remotely like this. Amazing!
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It is pretty unique and far from resorty. Dry cabins with woodstoves.
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Looks gorgeous! The sunrise and sunset are beautiful !!
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Thanks. Yeah, our sunrise and sunset that time of year last hours.
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Great photos! I’d don’t think I’d ever want to go myself, but it’s great to read about it. One of my sons and his girlfriend visited Denali last summer (yours) and had a great time. They also (briefly) visited Columbia, and he’s a bird man, like yourself! Small world.
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It is such a small world. I just ran into friends I met in Guatemala several years ago. We ran into each other in Quito.
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Amazing shots! “…..a cup of coffee while sitting in the hot waters at 10:30 in the morning watching the sunrise” sounds divine 🙂
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It is just that.
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Wow – those sunsets are amazing!
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They were. That is really one of the best parts of the trip that time of year.
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This takes me back! I miss Fairbanks so much.
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Where are you now?
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Just a bit south in Seattle. But a world away.
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I bet. I love to visit Seattle but, like most cities, after a few days I feel like something is wrong. Like my brother says, I’m “just a country bumpkin.”
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Luv this. Thnx soooo much for sharing this! Hugs. Lisa K
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You’re welcome. I am glad you enjoyed it. It’s one our most fun winter adventures accessible to all locals.
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Definitely jealous. Only made one trip to Alaska and can’t wait to go back.
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Where did you go?
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Down the Kenai to Homer and Valdez. Then up to Denali. This was when you had to take a rickety school bus back on the dirt roads of the park. We did tak a dirt road across the center of the state in our 24 foot RV which was kind of adventurous. Or stupid. Sometimes they are one and the same.
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It is still by bus only into the park (except for photographers). The dirt road through the center of the state must have been the Denali Hwy. That is gorgeous country that many don’t see. Good job.
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I’m in the UK; I’ve dreamed of visiting Alaska – would love to bring my young family. Your tours look great.
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Hello, We are a oriented towards working with families in Alaska as many clients come with children of all ages. The best thing about guiding tours that have youth along is the questions they ask. Their minds are fresh and unbiased. Thanks for stopping by and if you should ever decide to bring your family to Alaska please email me at mike@exddtours.com. I would love to plan a trip for you. Cheers!
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thank you, will do; we always like to travel with local specialists! I am so tempted; just air fares putting me off. Any tips on best flights from London?
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The best fares are usually out of Frankfurt , direct r/t usually ~500usd. I don’t book flights but I will do some looking around and get back to you. Flights to Alaska from the lower 48 (US) are very cheap this summer…
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Mike, sadly won’t be this summer but 2014 hopeful; 500US sounds feasible.
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We will still be here in 2014 so no problem. Please send me an email to mike@exddtours.com so I can email you if there are some good fares that come up. Have a great spring.
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The Frankfurt thing is off this year apparently but see this:
Cheers
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thanks for update Mike.
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;>)
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Very nice photos and very nice blog. Enjoyed them.
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Great pictures, though I have to say I am not a great fan of snow but that is because the stuff is cold and that’s because Cats run about bare pawed in the stuff, but then I suppose that is better than wearing four little booties isn’t it?
Imagine the nonsense that would be talked about a self-respecting Cat if he wore those!
Purrs,
The Cat
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Well check this out
our racing dogs wear them….
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Beautiful photos and lovely notes on a fascinating trip!
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Thanks. It’s funny to write about it after doing that trip so many times. I feel like I’ve done it no justice to be honest. Translating experience into text is such a challenge but a worthy one. I am glad you enjoyed it. Cheers
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Alaska must be an amazing place. The hot tub soak sounds good even down in the lower 48, so I imagine it feels awesome there with that view.
janet
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Yeah, I think tubbing is pretty amazing wherever there is cool weather. Did I mention it was probably minus 40-50 with the windchill while we were in that tub?
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Great post Mike, this natural hot tub works exactly like one I used to visiti guiding trekkers in Iceland … many days trek away from anywhere, the hot lake (with hot and cold running streams!) was just awesome. Bit gritty down below though 🙂 Alaska sounds more appealing all the time reading your stuff. One question for summer visitors… mosquitoes? Not a problem but is spring, fall or winter better?
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Mosquitos? Alaska state bird my friend. Depends when you come ad where you go. Tolovana in summer? Oof, I don’t think I’d dare.
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How I want to try all these things … Walking in the snow, being in a cabin in the woods, soaking in that tub with hot water and photographing Northern sunrise and sunset … We used to go to a cabin in the woods when I was in University in Bulgaria, but it was never that interesting as it seems in your post!
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What did you do at the cabin? How did you get to it?
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There is a road, with good car you can get to it, the last 3-4 km though are not that friendly, so we usually left the cars there and walked to the cabin, which is fine, even in the snow. In Bulgaria weather conditions are not that extreme … It was always fun, but fun from the point of view 20-22 years old students will have 🙂 I don’t ski, never learned how to, even if my home place is 10 km away from one of the nicest ski resorts …
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As a hiker and someone who likes to travel, Alaska seems like a nice place to visit. Thank you so much for visiting my blog.
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Wow. Wow and more Wow. Your photos are amazing! Thanks for dropping by Wiener World, too.
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Thanks, it think the magic is in the light and landscape, not me or my low tech camera. Twilight season. Have you been up north?
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Reading this I want to go! Thanks so much for this lovely piece of writing.
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Thanks so much. I am humbled by your compliment.
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Thanks for the trip into Alaska. Best, Wm. Eaton, Montaigbakhtinian.com
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Your welcome. Glad I could take you there.
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Great trip. Never made it to Tolovana in winter (wonder why?). Chena yes. Funny how you mentioned Livengood. Remember sampling and mapping there for gold. Hoardes of squiters and various other flying annoyances. Sorta blacked out the sky. Winter is nice, huh?
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Winter is awesome. Who were you working for? Or just prospecting?
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I was working for a mining co. just evaluating claims submitted by prospectors. Based out of F-banks for a good part of that summer. Met some real characters, as you probably could guess.
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I can imagine. Did you see the National Geographic show o Alaska Pickers this week? They are picking out the fringe of Fairbanks society to represent us. It’s gonna be worse than Sarah Palin.
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Thanks for visiting my blog and caring for my frustration in my internet cutting me off. My son is a boat captain in Alaska on the coast. I have never been there, but always look at stuff if I see Alaska involved when I have time. http://blueribbonfair.wordpress.com/
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What sort of boat does your son skipper? What part of Alaska? Lots of coastline here.
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